devilled kidneys – serves 4

8 lambs’ kidneys
olive oil, for cooking
1 large banana shallot, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
200g chestnut mushrooms, quartered
small glass of sherry
1 tbsp white wine vinegar or cider vinegar
1 tsp redcurrant jelly
few dashes of Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tbsp English mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp double cream
handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

loaf of crusty bread
olive oil for brushing

Cut the kidneys in half horizontally and remove the white veins in the centre of each half. I find kitchen scissors best for this

Heat a little oil in a small frying pan, add the kidneys and sizzle just to brown them, tossing occasionally. Remove.

Soften the chopped shallot and add the mushrooms and cook for a couple of minutes

Add the sherry and let it bubble for a minute, then add the vinegar and jelly, stirring well to dissolve. Return the kidneys.

Add the Worcestershire Sauce, cayenne pepper, mustard and seasoning to taste.

Reduce the heat to a low simmer and stir in the double cream. Let this bubble for another minute or two, shaking the pan occasionally, until the sauce is glossy and reduced. Taste for piquancy, adding a little more cayenne and black pepper if you wish

Cut 4 slices of the crusty bread, brush both sides with olive oil and place on a hot griddle pan for one minute on each side until lightly charred.

Divide the kidneys between the toasted bread, sprinkle with parsley and serve